Una receta distinta de torta de navidad:

Utilidades impensadas de cosas normales del hogar:

Quantum weirdness: Catching the ghost in the atom:


Video reveals how a moth can become invisible:


Seabird cam lets you experience diving for food:




The lion’s roar – First Aid Kit

Now the pale morning sings of forgotten things
She plays a tune for those who wish to overlook
The fact that they’ve been blindly deceived
By those who preach and pray and teach
But she falls short and the night explodes in laughter

But don’t you come here and say I didn’t warn you
About the way your world can alter
And oh how you try to command it all still
Every single time it all shifts one way or the other

And I’m a goddamn coward, but then again so are you
And the lion’s roar, the lion’s roar
Has me evading and hollering for you
And I never really knew what to do

Well I guess sometimes I wish you were a little more predictable
That I could read you just like a book
For now I can only guess what’s coming next
By examining your timid smile
And the ways of the old, old winds blowing you back ’round

And I’m a goddamn fool, but then again so are you
And the lion’s roar, the lion’s roar
Has me seeking out and searching for you
And I never really knew what to do

Sometimes I wish I could find my Rosemary Hill
I’d sit there and look at the deserted lakes and I’d sing
And every once in a while I’d sing a song for you
That would rise above the mountains and the stars and the sea
And if I wanted it to it would lead you back to me

And the lion’s roar, the lion’s roar
Is something that I have heard before
A children’s tale, the lonesome wail of a lion’s roar.

Para el 2014


May the frightened cease to be afraid

And those bound be freed;

May the powerless find power,

And may people think of benefiting one another.

A Guide to the Bodhisattva’s Way of Life, SHANTIDEVA.


La gente que encontré en mi camino
gente que amé, gente que lloré,
ya no están.
Son ecos en mi memoria,
copias poco fieles de algo que nunca volverá.
No volveran los besos,
ni los abrazos,
los adioses, ni los .
No volverá el tiempo,
que ya es de otro.
Un pequeño regalo por cruzarse.
Tan basto como un té,
tan corto como olvido.
Tengo esperanza en que tan solo
no alla sido tiempo

Patrones de Harry Potter (para dos agujas)

En este post les copio unos patrones que encontré en internet para tejer bufandas y gorros de las casas de Hogwarts y el cardigan que usa Ginny en la quinta peli :)


Hogwarts style Scarf


US 6 (4 mm) or US 8 (5 mm) 12-16″ (30.5 cm – 40.6 cm) circular needle, size dependent on gauge
Equal amounts of light and dark colored yarn (see Yarn Recommendations for Hogwarts’ Scarves)
Size J (6 mm) or K (6.5 mm) crochet hook, for pulling fringe through ends
Circular stitch marker, to mark beginning of each round.
Yarn needle


20 sts and 24 rows per 4″ (10 cm)

Scarf Measurements

65-70″ (165.1 cm – 177.8 cm) long and 7-8″ (17.8 cm – 20.3 cm) wide
Each stripe is a little more than 3″ (7.6 cm) long.


Cast on 70 stitches in the Main Color [MC] (scarlet for Gryffindor, green for Slytherin, blue for Ravenclaw, black for Hufflepuff).

Before joining the ring, slip the marker onto the needle.

Knit in the round for 22 rows.

After the 22 rows, tie the Contrast Color [CC] (gold for Gryffindor, grey for Slytherin & Ravenclaw (film), bronze for Ravenclaw (book), yellow for Hufflepuff) around the dark yarn on the inside of the tube, leaving a 2-inch (5.1 cm) tail of CC; trim the MC to have the same length tail. Now, knit 22 rows in the lighter yarn.

Alternate knitting 22 rows of MC, then 22 rows of CC until you have knitted ten dark and nine light stripes.

Cast off.


Weave the yarn tails from cast-on and cast-off into the scarf.

Wash the scarf according to your yarn’s instructions; dry it flat on the floor/table on top of towels. Be sure to align all the color changes along one side fold of the scarf (they’re less noticable that way).

Block the scarf by stretching it widthwise until the entire thing is the same width.


When the scarf is dry, it’s time to add the fringe. I’ve found that the US hardcover of Sorcerer’s Stone is a good size to measure fringe with – if you don’t have a copy, use a piece of cardboard 7.5 inches wide. Just wrap the yarn around the book widthwise (y’know, the short way), then cut the wound yarn at the edge of the book/cardboard so it forms several individual pieces of yarn.

To make one tassel, take 7 pieces of yarn and fold them in half together. Push the crochet hook through both thicknesses of scarf in the first row of knitting at one end, loop the folded ends of the yarn around the hook, and pull the yarn loops halfway through the scarf. Remove the hook, pass the cut yarn ends through the loop, and tighten the tassel. There are five light and six dark tassels evenly spaced on each end of the scarf; I usually do the middle light tassel first, then the dark end tassels, and eye the rest. Now, put on your scarf and show off!

Hogwarts Sweater


  • DK weight yarn (acrylic/wool blend would be good) – approx 700 yds dark grey (MC) and a little of your chosen house colours (CC1, CC2):
    Gryffindor – CC1 = gold; CC2 = red
    Ravenclaw – CC1 = blue; CC2 – bronze*
  • Hufflepuff – CC1 = yellow; CC2 – black*
  • Slytherin – CC1 = green; CC2 – light grey
    *i haven’t yet found photos which show these to be right but they seem a reasonable guess.
  • 4mm (US 6) needles
  • 3.75mm circular needleSIZES
  • 36(38,40)” bustGAUGE
  • 22 sts x 30 rows = 4″ in stocking stitchBACK
    CO 100(106,112) sts. work in K1 P1 rib for 2″
    switch to st st. work 2 rows in CC1, 4 in CC2, 2 in CC1
    switch to MC and work in st st for 13(13.5,14)”.
    CO 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows
    next row: k3, ssk, to to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3
    rep this every RS row until 8 sts in total dec each side. **
    work even until armhole meas 8″
    BO 6(7,8) sts, k20(22,24), k2tog, k1. place rem sts on holder.
    next row: purl
    next row: BO 6(7,8), k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
    rep these two rows until 8 sts rem.
    BO, rejoin yarn and shape other side to match, using ssk to dec instead of k2tog.FRONT
    work as for back to **
    k37(40,43), k2tog, k3. pleace rem sts on holder.
    next row: purl
    next row (dec row): k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 rep these rows until 10 sts dec, then rep the dec row every other RS row until 6 more sts dec. work even for 9 rows.
    BO 6 (7,8) sts at beg of next row and every other RS row until 8 sts rem. BO.
    rejoin yarn and shape other side to match, using ssk to dec instead of k2tog.

    CO 48(50,52) sts. work in k1 p1 rib for for 2″
    switch to st st. OLD STYLE ONLY – work 2 rows in CC1, 4 in CC2, 2 in CC1
    switch to MC and work in st st, inc 1 at each end of next & every 8th row 12 times, ending on a WS row
    BO 4(4,5) sts at beg of next 2 rows
    next row: k1, ssk, ssk, work to last 5 sts, k2tog, k2tog, k1
    next row: purl
    rep these two rows once more
    dec 1 at each end of every RS row until 24(26,26) sts rem. BO

    using 3.75mm needle with MC, with RS facing starting at the tip of the V, pick up sts evenly around the neckline.
    work in k1 p1 rib for 1 rnd
    next rnd (dec rnd): work 1, ssk, rib to last 3 sts, k2tog, work 1
    working dec rnd every other rnd as est, OLD STYLE – work 2 rnds in CC1, 4 in CC2, 2 in CC1, 2 in MC. NEW STYLE – work in MC for 10 rnds.
    BO in rib.

    weave in yarn ends
    if using wool or wool blend, block each piece into shape.
    join shoulder seams with backstitch, sew sleeves into place with mattress stitch, seam arms and body with mattress stitch.

That Weasley Girl by Jacquelyn Landry – Cardigan


This cardigan is completely customizable. I have provided a chart with standard sizing estimates, but custom measurements will give you the best results.

Child sizes 5 [6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] to fit 24 [25, 26, 26.5, 27, 28, 29, 30] in

Adult sizes 28 [30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62] in.  Choose size based on the amount of ease you’d like in the garment. 2-4 inches is recommended.


Miss Babs Yummy Monochrome Superwash-4 ply (100% merino wool; 200 yards [183 meters]/113 g): Obsidian (MC), child sizes:  3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins; adult sizes: 5 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10, 11, 11) skeins;
Miss Babs Yummy Hand-Painted Superwash-4 ply (100% merino wool; 200 yards [183 meters]/113 g): Ginny Weasley (CC), all sizes 1 skein


US#7 (4.5 mm): 24-36” circular


Any gauge yarn can be used in a formula pattern.

The gauge used in the sample is provided below.

18 sts and 24 rows = 4” in St st


Stitch markers; stitch holders; tapestry needle; waste yarn; H-8 crochet hook; 3-4in piece of cardboard; sewing needle; matching thread; separating zipper in appropriate length.


Please see our standard list of abbreviations.

EOR: every other row
SSI: seed stitch increase
PUK: pick up and knit

Pattern Notes

When using a handpainted yarn for a large project like a garment that requires more than one skein knit alternately from 2 different balls to avoid pooling or obvious chunks of concentrated colors.

Editor’s Note – This pattern is well-suited to handpainted yarn; both seed stitch and rev st st create a lovely blending effect and help avoid the pooling and flashing that may happen with some handpainteds.

Seed Stitch increase (SSI): It is worked by knitting and then purling (or purling and then knitting) into the same stitch. The order in which it is worked is determined by the previous stitch so that the seed stitch pattern remains uninterrupted.

To Knit and then purl in the same stitch: Knit the stitch but do not slip it from the needle. Bring yarn to the front between needle tips and purl through the back loop. Slip both sts from the needle.

To purl and then knit in the same stitch: Purl the st but do not slip it off the needle. Move yarn to back between the needle tips and knit through the back loop. Slide both sts from needle.


This customized raglan cardigan is based on the following measurements:

Chest: Measure at the widest point of the chest/bust. Add to this measurement your desired ease (2-4” is recommended)=_______________

Neck: Measure the neck where you would expect a collar to fit. Hold the tape snug but not tight. _____________

Length: Measure from the armpit down to the desired length of cardigan. This is the length of your body. _______________

Sleeve: measure from your armpit to desired sleeve length._______________

If you don’t have access to the recipient of the cardigan you can use the following standard measurements (in inches) as a guideline.

Child Sizes 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Chest 24 25 26 26.5 27 28 29 30
Neck  9.75 10 10.5  11  11.5  12  12.5 13
Sleeve 9.5 10 11 11.5 13 13 14 14.5
Length 11 11.5 12 12.5 13 13.5 14 15
Adult Sizes (Chest) 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44
Neck 12.5 13 13.5  14  14.5  15  15.5 16 16.5
Sleeve 16.5 16.5 17 17 17 17 17.5 17.5 17.5
Length 13 13 13.5 14 14.5 15 15.5 16 16.5
Adult Sizes (Chest) 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62
Neck 17 17.5 18  18.5  19  19.5  20 20.5 215
Sleeve 17.5 18 18 18 18 18.5 18.5 18.5 18.5
Length 17 17.5 18 18.5 18.5 18.5 18.5 18 19

Pattern Calculations

Total CO sts: multiply neck measurement X stitch gauge per 1 inch= ________

Back: multiply CO sts X 0.4 (round so it’s even)= ________________

Sleeves (each): multiply CO X 0.10= __________

Fronts (each): multiply Back CO x 0.5= __________

A note on Raglan Increases

For kids’ sizes and smaller women’s sizes (say, up to size 36 or 38” bust), increasing every other row will typically suffice.

For larger sizes, you will likely have to speed up the rate of increase so the armhole depth doesn’t get too long.  Try on your work often and adjust as necessary to get a better fit.


Raglan Yoke

With US 7 (4.5 mm) circular needle CO: left front sts, PM, left sleeve sts, PM, back sts, PM, right sleeve sts, PM, right front sts. (sts should= Total CO sts)

Seed stitch worked over an even number of sts:
Row 1 (RS): *K1, p1, rep from * to end of row.
Row 2 (WS): *P1, k1, rep from * to end of row.

Begin working in seed st. You will work SSI in st before and after every marker on every RS row as follows:

Increase row (RS): *Work in established seed st to 1 st bef marker, SSI, sm, SSI, rep from * three times, cont in est seed stitch patt to end.

Cont working raglan increases in seed stitch until you have reached ½ to ¾ total raglan length. The depth of the seed stitch portion is up to you.

Once the seed portion of the yoke is complete you will switch to reverse st st (purl on RS, knit on WS) while continuing to work the first and last 3 sts of each row in seed st as follows:

Increase row (RS): K1, p1, k1, *p to 1 st bef marker, kfb, SM, kfb, rep from * three times, p to the last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 2 (WS): K1, p1, k1, k to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Slip sts onto waste yarn and try this portion on to be sure of fit. Return sts to circular needle to begin working body portion.


If you are working garment without waist shaping you can omit PM from set up row.

Set up row: Work to first marker in est patt. Remove marker and place sleeve sts on waste yarn, CO 2 underarm sts, PM, CO 2 underarm sts, remove marker, work in pattern to next marker. Remove marker and place sleeve sts on waste yarn, SM, CO 2 underarm sts, PM, CO 2 underarm sts, remove marker, work in pattern to end.

Continue working in est patt until body reaches 1” short of desired length. Work in seed st for remaining 1”.

If you would like to incorporate waist shaping you’ll need a few more measurements:

A.    First count the total stitches on the needle after set up row. This number is your body stitch count= _________.

B.    What is your waist measurement? Measure the thinnest part of your waist and add in any ease you want. Multiply this measurement by stitch gauge. This will be the stitch count at your waist after decreasing= ________.

C.    So how many stitches do you need to decrease? Subtract the waist stitch count from the body stitch count and round so it is divisible by 4 = ________.

D.    How many rows do I decrease over? Measure vertically from the point at which you have joined the underarm down to the thinnest part of your waist minus 1 (to accommodate working even portion). Multiply this measurement by row gauge=________.

E.    How many decrease rounds? Each decrease round decreases 4 stitches. Divide C by 4=______.

F.    How often to incorporate a decrease round? Divide D by (E-1) and round so it is divisible by 2 = _______.

G.    What is your hip measurement? Measure the widest point of your hips and add in any ease you want. Multiply this measurement by stitch gauge. This will be the stitch count at your hips after increasing= ________.

H.    So how many stitches do you need to increase? Subtract the hip stitch count from the waist stitch count and round so it is divisible by 4 = ________.

I.    How many rows do I increase over to reach hip width? Measure vertically from the thinnest part of your waist down to the desired hem of the garment. Subtract from this measurement the amount of space you want to work even before reaching desired length (2-3 inches is usually the norm). Now multiply this by the row gauge=________.

J.    How many increase rounds? Each increase round increases 4 stitches. Divide H by 4=______.

K.    How often to incorporate a decrease round? Divide I by (J-1) and round so it is divisible by 2 = _______.

Now break down your measurements into instructions.

Waist Decreases

Decrease Row (RS): K1, p1, k1, *p to 2 sts before M, p2tog, SM, p2tog, rep from * once, p to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.
Row 2 (WS): K1, p1, k1, k to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.
Rep Decrease Row every (F)______ rows (E)______ times.  Work WS rows and all other RS rows in patt as est.

After all decrease rows are completed, work even in patt for 1 inch

Hip Increases

Increase Row (RS): K1, p1, k1, *p to 1 st before M1R, p1, SM, p1, M1L, rep from * once, p to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.
Row 2 (WS): K1, p1, k1, k to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Rep Decrease Row every (K)______ rows (J)______ times. Work WS rows and all other RS rows in patt as est.

After all increase rows are completed, work even until reach 1” short of desired length. Work in seed stitch for remaining 1”.


Place sts from waste yarn on smaller circular needle or DPN’s. PUK 2 sts from underarm, PM, PUK 2 sts from underarm, join to work in round. Make note of your stitch count.

Next determine how often to decrease for a tapered sleeve. Refer to sleeve measurement (the length from your armpit to desired sleeve length) and multiply by row gauge to determine the actual number of rnds to be worked over the sleeve= ________.

For example: let’s say your sleeve measurement is 11 inches multiplied by a 6 row per inch gauge to get 66 total rounds in the sleeve. 

Generally decreasing every 4th, 5th, or 6th round is about right. The next step is to divide your total rnds by the different rates of decrease to determine cuff circumference. Once you have determined cuff circumference you’ll be able to decide which rate of decrease you prefer.

For example: (66 total rounds) divided by (decrease every 4th round)= 16.5 total decreases. Round this number to 17. 

Now you need to multiply this number by the sts decreased per decrease row.

17 total sleeve decreases X 2 stitches per decrease round= 34.

Now subtract this number from the starting number of sleeve sts from above.

Let’s say your sleeve sts totaled 64 after picking up underarm sts. 64 beginning sleeve sts – 34 total sts decreased= 30sts. 

Divide by the stitch gauge to determine sleeve circumference.

30 remaining sleeve (cuff sts) divided 4.5 sts per inch= 6.66 inches. 

Compare this measurement to your wrist/ wrist measurement. Repeat this calculation for the other rates of decrease if you want a looser cuff.

Work in Rev St st patt and decrease 1 st before and after marker on every 4th, 5th, or 6th round for a tapered sleeve. Continue working in est patt until sleeve reaches 1 in  short of desired length. Work remaining inch in seed stitch.


CO 4 sts, with RS facing PUK sts from neck (same as CO number), CO 4 sts.

Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p3, sl1, k1, yo, k to 1 st bef marker, kfb, SM, k2, SM, kfb, k to last 6 sts, yo, k1, p5. We didn’t place any markers above.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1, k3, sl1, p to last 5 sts, k5.
Row 3: Sl1, p3, sl1, k to 1 st bef marker, kfb, SM, k2, SM, kfb, k to last 5 sts, p5.
Row 4: Rep row 2
Rep last 2 rows 7-8 times for child, 10 times for adult.

Next: Sl2, p3, sl1, k to last 5 sts, p5.
Next: rep row 2
Work last 2 rows until hood is long enough to reach over the top of the head comfortably. Work to center of row, and with WS facing use Kitchener stitch or 3 needle bind off to close top seam.



Cut 3-6 lengths of CC yarn measuring 36-50”. The length of the drawstring should be long enough that it measures twice the length from top to neck of the hood plus whatever length you’d like your drawstrings to be plus 4in to use to tie tassel. Tie a tidy knot in one end and braid the length of the drawstring. Tie off end of braid

Drawstring Casing

The extra sts cast on at the edges of the neck will be folded over toward the inside of the hood to form the casing for the drawstring. Thread the braided drawstring through the two eyelets on the first row of the hood and pin the casing around the drawstring. With MC and a yarn needle stitch the casing closed. Take great care not to stitch the drawstring down or it will not function.


Drawstring tassels- Using a 5” piece of cardboard and CC wrap around 10-25 times or until tassel is as fat as desired (keep track of the number of wraps you use). Cut wraps along the bottom edge of the cardboard. Fold these pieces in half over the braided drawstring 4 in/10cm from the end. Tie the drawstring firmly around the group of yarn in a knot. Now tuck a tied end of the braid into the center of the tassel so that when you wrap the neck it becomes bound within and hidden. Using a separate strand of yarn, wrap the neck of the tassel tightly a few times then tie it firmly. Using a yarn needle bring each tail under the group of wraps and down through the center of the tassel. Repeat for other end of drawstring. Make a third tassel for the hood using a 20 in/51cm piece of CC to bind in place of the braided drawstring. Using the center tie of the tassel attach this tassel to point of hood. Make 2 smaller (mini) tassels for each sleeve cuff using a 4 in/ 10cm piece of cardboard. Set aside.

Decorative Embroidery

Embroidery is used to border the waist and sleeve hems, the seed stitch portion of the yoke and the hood. You can make this as plain or as fancy as you like but don’t stress over perfection. Molly Weasley certainly wouldn’t.

Sleeve cuffs - Use a basic running stitch and work a horizontal row beginning on the St st portion of the sleeve. Working over one stitch and under the next will allow you to keep stitches uniform.

Body hem - Use a basic running stitch and work a horizontal row beginning on the St st portion of the sleeve. Working over one stitch and under the next will allow you to keep stitches uniform. On the right front portion above running stitches, stitch several simple flowers. I added a few curlicues in a simple running stitch to embellish.

- Use a basic running stitch and work a horizontal row to separate seed stitch portion from reverse Stst. Stitch more simple flowers on the right seed stitch portion of the front, sleeve and onto the back. On the right front, sleeve, and back portion work two rows of crossed stitches.

- I use 2 simple flowers, a shasta daisy and a lazy daisy.

Shasta daisy - use long straight stitches that all begin from a general center point to create a circular flower similar to a daisy. Next you will make a French knot in the center of the flower.

Lazy daisy - bring needle and yarn up from center point and push needle back down close to where it emerged from fabric. Pull on the yarn slowly, and when the loop that’s left on the front is the size you want your flower petal to be, bring the needle back up through the work where you want the end of the petal to be, and make a short stitch here over the petal yarn to tack it in place. Repeat to make petals all around center. Next you will make a French knot in the center of the flower.

French knot flower center - Bring needle up through the empty center circle. Hold the yarn down where it emerges with the left thumb and encircle the yarn twice with the needle (see A). Still holding the yarn firmly with your thumb, twist the needle back to the starting point and insert it close to     where the yarn first  merged (not in the exact place or it will simply pull back through). Pull the needle through to the back, leaving a small knot on the surface, as shown. You can also attach a bead in place of the French knot for the center of the daisy.

Cross stitch - make an x by stitching from bottom left to top right, then from top left to bottom right.

If you’re new to embroidery, the Embroiderers’ Guild has a great set of tutorials: french knotrunning stitchlazy daisy, and cross stitch.


Pin the zipper securely to either side of the front so that the bottom is even when the zipper is closed. Work with the zipper open for the remaining steps.
With a contrasting thread baste it onto cardigan fronts so there is no wiggling while you are sewing. Running stitches in the center of the zipper tape work best so as not to interfere with the edge or the space closest to the zipper teeth where you’ll be sewing (this step is purely functional and doesn’t have to be pretty).

Now with the WS facing sew the zipper to the cardigan front in a vertical line along the space right next to the zipper teeth. Try to let the needle grab the yarn as you backstitch rather than having these stitches show through the front. It looks neater in the end.
Now sew the outer edge of the zipper tape with the RS facing. The smaller the stitches the less likely they will show. Remove the basting and repeat the process for the other side.

Weave in any remaining ends. Block


I’ve got my ticket for the long way ’round
The one with the prettiest view
It’s got mountains, it’s got rivers
It’s got sights to give you shivers
But it sure would be prettier with you~

¿A quién queremos que la ciencia le sea útil?

Hoy me encontré con un reportaje que me pareció muy interesante, trata sobre un físico de la UBA que se salió del camino “establecido” (lease, recibirse-beca doctoral+Conicet-papers, papers y más papers) y comenzó a trabajar como perito para la justicia, ayudando a buscar evidencia de lo que sucedió en cada caso (aplicando física, of course!).  Pero parece que al Conicet mucho esto no le gustaba y casi… bueno, lean la nota. Acá abajo les dejo una cita para que vayan pispeando.

…¿a quién le es útil la ciencia, queremos que la ciencia sea útil para los centros de poder, para los que están financiando desde afuera al sistema científico, o queremos que sea útil para reducir la de-sigualdad, mejorar la calidad de vida, producir una reparación en la población?

Rodolfo Pregliasco,  Página 12, Lunes 6 de mayo de 2013

La nota entera en: http://www.pagina12.com.ar/diario/dialogos/21-219382-2013-05-06.html

Nueva dieta


Hay cosas que nunca cambian

Otra de esas largas noches de estudio es las que una se llena de dudas existenciales que, obviamente, no tienen nada que ver con lo que se debe aprender para mañana.

Pero bueno, por lo menos ahora Foo Figthers me hace compañía. Hablando de eso, estoy haciendo un escrito que gira sobre la idea de como cambian las interpretaciones que se hacen sobre una canción a medida que uno va avanzando (?) en su vida. O de como canciones que me gustaban y no sabía porque ahora me dan la sensación de que me gustaban porque sabía que en algún momento me iba a sentir identificada, en una especie de circulo temporal. O quizás solo habla de mis personalidades múltiples y esto es la muestra de un exceso de café. En fin, nunca lo sabrán.

Creo en los paraguas

El miércoles 20 de Marzo tuve mi primera clase de Evolución. Al profesor le gusta mucho debatir las definiciones y escuchar las opiniones de los alumnos, por lo que no se tardó mucho en abordar el tema de que el 60% de las personas de EEUU no creen en la teoría de la evolución (según una encuesta de 2006).

Cuando volví a casa estaba garuando y me puse a pensar mientras miraba como corrian las gotitas por la ventana del colectivo. Más allá de que el estudio era a escala global y sólo tomaron a EEUU como ejemplo de América -cosa que no me cae para nada bien- una pregunta me quedó retumbando en la cabeza ¿cómo sería la vida de alguien que no cree en la evolución?

Mientras caminaba bajo la lluvia seguí cavilando. A mí pensar no creer en la evolución sería equivalente a no creer que los paraguas funcionan. Acompáñenme en la analogía, yo estaba caminando bajo la lluvia sin paraguas volviendo a casa y veía pasar gente con paraguas. Para decir que no creo que los paraguas me protegen de la lluvia tendría que negar que la gente que está caminando a mi lado está seca de la cabeza a las rodillas y solo se mojan en la parte en la que no los cubre. Para negar eso tendría que crear toda  una línea de razonamiento que me permita refutarlo. Podría decir que me costó mucho, pero no es así porque ya conocía el modelo. Asumí que, por alguna razón, algún ente superior a mí había orquestado que existieran personas sobre este suelo que fueran inmunes a la lluvia, o sea, el paraguas es sólo una cosa accesoria que este ser les entregó y que es imposible conseguir de otra manera.

Esta forma de pensar para mí es horrible, es completamente justificatoria. Las cosas te vienen de arriba, por alguna razón que no debés comprender, y si no te vinieron de arriba no debés obtenerlas, porque te fueron negadas en post de un plan divino integral en el cual muchos tienen que sufrir para que unos pocos puedan pasarla bien, pero ojo que todos están cumpliendo su destino.

Entonces, aceptar la evolución no es lo mismo que aceptar cualquier otra teoría (como la de la gravedad). Aceptar la teoría de la evolución es aceptar que las cosas están en constante cambio y que el estatus quo en realidad es una vida no lineal de incertezas en la cual uno sabe donde empieza, pero no donde termina, a lo largo de la cual los papeles entre opresores y oprimidos se pueden dar vuelta o, incluso, desaparecer.

Y nadie quiere eso, ¿verdad?